How to Grow Walnuts

Time to germination: 5 months to a year
Time to harvest: 10 years
Light requirements: Full sun
Soil: Fertile, not sandy

Introduction

 There are Black Walnuts, White Walnuts, English Walnuts, Heartnut Walnuts and Cannonball Walnuts.

All types of walnuts are quite hardy, and actually require a cold winter in order to thrive. So anyone living in warm climates won’t have much success with their own walnut trees. Walnuts will start to produce nuts at around 10 years of age, give full production at 30 and keep on producing for more than 50 years. Depending on the specific type of tree, they can grow up to 100 feet in height.

Many gardeners consider walnuts to be very “messy” trees, much like pecans. They drop their leaves all through the summer, and will kill nearby plants (more on that below).

Starting Your Tree

If you choose to start your walnut tree from a seed, you will want to either plant your seeds where you want your final tree, or transplant it while very small. Walnuts do not do well at all in containers because of deep tap roots and don’t handle transplanting.

You cannot just pick a walnut from the supermarket and plant it in the ground to start your own walnut tree. Nuts intended for eating will not sprout. Contact your local nursery for untreated walnuts for planting. You can plant with or without the husk still on, though taking the husk off will help the plant germinate.

Plant your nuts in the fall, and protect them from squirrels. They need a period of cold before they will sprout. It only needs to be about 3 inches under the soil. They should sprout in 4 to 5 months, or possibly not until the following year.

You can also buy small seedlings, or larger grafted saplings to get a bigger head-start on your nut crops. Grafted saplings have walnut tree branches grafted to the trunk and roots of another type of tree (which is why the survive transplanting better).

One tree is fine on its own, but if you want a group or stand of walnut trees, you need to keep 20 feet or more between them. A single walnut tree can self-fertilize, meaning you will get nuts even with just one tree. You can get a larger harvest of nuts per tree if you have 2 or more though.

Placement of your tree is more important than with most other nut trees because walnut leaves are toxic. The leaves (as well as the roots) give off a substance called juglone, and it will kill any other plants nearby including the grass. So if your plans include having your nut trees within the yard, or overhanging other plants, you’ll have to pick another kind of tree. Also, keep your walnut leaves out of the compost pile.

Unlike annual garden plants, your walnut tree is a more permanent installation. It’s important to take the necessary time to map out the best location for your trees. There should be full sun (remember to plan ahead by at least 10 years), and no solid rock at least 3 under the surface of the soil. Ideally, your soil will be rich and well-drained but not sandy.

Tree Care

Depending on the age and size of the tree, you may not be able to significantly treat diseases or insect infestations on a walnut tree.

Webworms or tent caterpillars can be a problem if there are too many of them on your trees. They build large tents of webbing, that can house hundreds of hungry caterpillars. Cut any branches off with tents and dispose of them carefully. If the problem is severe, spray the tree with BT (Bacillus thuringinsis) a natural bacteria-based pesticide that will attack the caterpillars. Harsher sprays of Carbaryl or Malathion can also kill them.

Full size trees have very long and deep root systems, which usually can protect them from moisture problems on the surface. But after very prolonged periods of drought, your trees might need some watering. You can end up with “burned” walnuts come harvest time if you let your trees get too dry for too long.

Walnut trees should be left to grow naturally without pruning.

Harvest and Storage

If you didn’t already know that early black dye came from Black walnut husks, you’re going to learn after you try to harvest a few of your nuts.

Initially, your tree will produce round green “fruits” that look quite a bit like tennis balls. These are the walnuts. The green outside husk actually has the nut inside of it. To harvest, you have to wait until they are mature enough to drop off of the tree on their own. You don’t pick them. This can make for a bit of a messy and unpredictable nut harvest.

As they ripen, the green husks will come apart and turn black. It’s at this point that they will stain anything they touch, including your hands. Don’t leave your nuts for too long inside the husks at this point. The oils will seep in through the nut shell, and taint the nut meats. Get the nuts out of their husks as soon as they drop off the tree.

Getting the husks off can be a bit of a chore, and some home gardeners even lay out their nuts out on the driveway and drive over them. There are less drastic measures though. Rolling them back and forth on a hard surface (driveway, sidewalk, large stones), with your foot is a more common method. You’ll need to put your weight behind it though. The nuts and husks will stain your work area, so don’t unhusk your walnuts out on the front sidewalk.

If your nuts have ripened enough to be very black on the outside, you may find worms have made a home in them. These are husk fly larvae and they make husking a bit unpleasant but they don’t represent any danger to the hard nuts inside.

Inside the husks, you’ll find a whole walnut in its shell. Wash off the husk remains and keep your harvest somewhere warm and well-ventilated for a few weeks. Warmer temperatures will mean a shorter drying time. You can check for adequate drying by cracking open a nut and testing the little hard divider that runs between the two halves of the nut meat (sometimes called the septum). That piece should be hard and crisp. If its soft, then your nuts aren’t dry enough. Fresher nuts won’t taste the same, though they can be eaten.

After that, you just have to shell them to remove the edible nut meats inside. Dried walnuts still in their shells will last up to a year.

The diversity of grapes cultivated in Moldova

Moldovans’ ancestors were growing different sorts of  high-quality grapes - Ochiul Boului, Tata Caprei, Pasareasca, Feteasca, Rara Neagra, Tamaioasa, Zghiharda, Plavai etc. The traditional repertoire was enriched by the variety coming from the Greeks, Romans, and later – from the Turks, Austrians and French. In the end of ХIХ century in France, Italy and America there have been tested and originated new types and hybrids. In Moldova there are currently over a hundred varieties of grape-vine.

They differ by the color of pearls: from straw yellow and gold – to bright pink, pink and more intense - in bright red, purple and blue to purple.

Varieties cultivated in Moldova have different periods of ripening, which extend harvest season from August to November.

The classification according to ripening period divides the varieties of grapes in early, semi early, with medium ripening time, semi late and late. In Moldova there are all the types listed. First giving ripe are Muscatul Perla and Muscatul Chihlimbariu, and  the end of the season comes with grape harvesting Coarna Neagra, Muscat de Hamburg ,etc.

By the further destination the types of grapes are divided into mass varieties (Leana, Regina) and  for industrial processing and obtaining juice, concentrates and wines of different types (in Moldova - the grapes with yellow-green pearls and rose-open Feteasca Alba ,Shardonnay, Pink Traminer, Muscat, Aligote, Sauvignon, etc.. and ruby-violet color: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Saperavi etc.)

At the category of grapes that have  dual-usage (for fresh consumption and industrial processing) are listed species Vitis labrusca (Concord, Lydia, Izabella) and Vitis vinifera (Schasla Blanc, Muscat Schasla etc..), also so-called species "stable growth” (Drujba, Moldova, Kismis Radios etc).

The high quality of pearls characterized elite species, usually these are most productive and most refined. For industrial processing and obtaining noble wines there are Muscat Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, etc.

Varieties of Hot Peppers

Anaheim Chili - This pepper has the least "heat". But it has a good flavor. The large, six to eight inch fruit turns from dark green to a brilliant red when ripe. This pepper is popular for drying.

Caribbean Red Pepper - A Habanero pepper that is fiery hot. It produces red, wrinkly fruit. This hot pepper rates between 350,000- 450,000 on the Scoville scale.

Cascabella - This is a pungent, cone shaped fruit, just a little over an inch long. Cascabella plants  are prolific producers of fruit, that is bright yellow or red when ripe. Try this pepper in salads and sauces.

Long Cayenne Pepper - This pepper is fiery hot. Fruit grows about five inches long, turning from deep green to a brilliant red. It's best known for heating up chili.

Habanero Hot Peppers  - This electric-orange pepper is the King of the hot peppers. It is absolutely the hottest pepper you can grow.  Slightly wrinkled fruit grows one inch long, turning from light green to a fiery orange when ripe.

Hungarian Wax  - These "medium hot" pepper is especially zesty and attractive when pickled. It is good raw and cooked. 5 to 8 inch long fruit has a smooth skin. They turn from bright yellow to red when fully ripe.

Jalapeno Pepper - One of the best known hot peppers is Jalapenos. Most people think this is a pretty hot pepper. Many growers pick the dark green fruit when it reaches 2-3 inches long. If left on the plant, it turns a fiery red when ripe. Jalapenos are great stuffed, or sliced for use in a wide variety of Tex-Mex dishes.

Pepperoncini - These peppers pack a mild heat, and turn sweeter as they ripen. The fruit starts out as green or yellow, ripening into a Mars-like red color. Pepperoncini are delicious in Mediterranean salads, pastas and sandwiches.

Poblano / Ancho - As far as hot peppers go, Poblanos are on the mild side. But, they are tasty. They are the main ingredient in chile rellenos. Poblano peppers are wonderful roasted and peeled. Mature fruit measures 6 inches long and 3 inches wide, and are reddish-brown when ripe. They are called Poblano when fresh, and Ancho when dried.

 Serrano Chili -  One of the hottest around, Serrano Chili pepper plants produce an abundance of small fruits, ripening from dark green to crimson. As it's name implies, it is used to make chili sauce and pepper sauces.

Thai Hot Pepper - Many people grow this plant as an ornamental. It is attractive in your garden or in a container on your patio or deck. In addition to being a hot looking plant, it's fruit is fiery hot, too. Thai peppers grow about one inch long, and are bright red. When it comes to hot, they take second place. Only Habaneros are hotter. Plants grow about 18 inches tall.

Tobasco Chile Pepper - Best known for it's use in tobasco sauce, tobasco pepper is a real "hottie"with good flavor. They are also good in salsa and stir-fry dishes. Plants grow up to four feet tall. As the 1 1/2 inch fruits ripen, they turn from green to orange to red.

How to Start an Ostrich Farm

Cows and corn are often the first images that come to mind when thinking about farms, but many non-traditional types of farms also exist. Ostrich farming is one type of agriculture that can have many advantages. Ostriches produce meat and consume resources at a ratio that is much more profitable than beef cattle. A ostrich farm requires only a small areas of land and can generate revenue in several different ways.

Step 1
Determine which ostrich products to sell in order to produce revenue from the farm. Ostrich meat and ostrich hide are two common sources of revenue. The eggs and feathers of ostriches can also be sold and do not require the slaughter of the bird.

Step 2
Locate an area of land that can be used for the ostrich farm. Ostriches require between one and three acres of land in order to run and remain healthy. Build a simple shelter to protect the birds from harsh weather, and construct a fence to prevent the ostriches from escaping.

Step 3
Provide a sufficient supply of food and water for the ostrich farm. Large birds can drink several gallons of water each day. Ensure that the water is kept fresh. Purchase feed that is specially formulated for ostrich nutrition. Alternately, plant crops and grasses for the ostriches to eat.

Step 4
Choose a type of ostrich to raise. Red neck, blue neck and African black ostriches are the three general types of birds. Red neck and blue neck ostriches are often large and aggressive, while African black birds are smaller and easier to manage. The African black ostrich is often recommended for first-time farm operators.

Step 5
Purchase ostriches for the farm. Select from unhatched eggs, young chicks or adult ostriches. Unhatched eggs and young chicks are relatively inexpensive but require a significant amount of time and expertise to raise properly. Adult ostriches can begin producing new eggs quickly yet are more expensive to purchase initially.

Tip
Before opening an ostrich farm, check with the state agriculture or small business office to determine if a license is required. Contact a veterinarian to obtain an interstate health certificate before transporting animals or live eggs.

Which Type of Chicken is Best for Your Farm or Homestead ?

Once you've decided to keep chickens, you need to choose the chicken breed or breeds you are going to raise on your small farm or homestead. Chickens come in different colors, sizes, and personalities - and with over 200 breeds, it can be hard to choose! This list of the most popular breeds will help you figure out the best fit for your farm.

First, learn about the different characteristics of breeds and why you might want to choose one over the other:
Choosing Chickens
When you're ready to buy, find out where to get chicks:
Buy Baby Chicks
Keep checking back here, because I'll be adding more breeds all the time!

Ameracauna
True standard Ameracaunas are a rare breed of South American chicken that lays blue eggs. Most of what are called "Ameracaunas" or "Easter Eggers" in the United States are a mix of South American breeds. In any case, these are fun, interesting birds who are primarily good for laying eggs, not so much for meat. Their personalities can vary and their eggs, in all shades of blue, green, and even cream, are favorites among children and farmers market customers.

New Hampshire Red
New Hampshire Reds are a vigorous, early-maturing breed known for their meat more than their eggs, although they are a true dual-purpose bird, good for both meat production and egg-laying. They originally derived from Rhode Island Reds. Their personalities can vary by bird, from focused on the pecking order and a bit aggressive toward other birds, to mellow and docile.

Orpington
The most common Orpington variety is Buff. Buff Orpingtons are known for their big, fluffy-feathered bodies and gentle hearts. These are the Big Birds of the dual-purpose chicken world. Sweet, docile, and easy to confine in a fenced area, they are a favorite of families with young children. They'll tolerate a lot of picking up and handling. This means that they may also be more vulnerable to predators, though. They were originally developed for meat, but also lay eggs well, and lay right through the winter months. Great for cold climates. One of my favorite breeds overall.

Plymouth Rock
The most common Plymouth Rock variety is the Barred Rock. With their black and white stripes, Barred Rocks are a good-looking breed and stand out in the flock. Plymouth Rocks are solid, sturdy dual-purpose birds and very popular for the small farm and homestead. They were at one time the most popular breed in America.

Rhode Island Red
Rhode Island Reds are prolific egg-layers, and at one time a standard for small poultry farms. Although they're good for meat, too, they are known for their high egg production. They are active, but also calm and docile, although roosters can tend toward the aggressive side in this breed.

Sussex
An English breed, Sussex chickens were at one time the most common British table bird. Speckled Sussex is the most common variety, and they stand out from other hens with their brown plumage with white speckles. It's also good camouflage from predators. They are known for their unique, friendly, and curious personalities. Another of my favorite breeds - we have a hen named Miss Friendly who is a Speckled Sussex, and she was named because she is by far the most "pet-like" of any of our chickens.

How to Choose Pig Breeds

So, you’ve decided that pigs are a good choice for your farm, and you want to raise them for meat. You’re wondering: what breed do I get? What breeds are even available? What are the pros and cons of different pig breeds?

Commercial Pigs

“Factory” raised pigs, raised in large quantities on the mega hog house, are designed for optimal meat production, but are pretty dry, bland and tasteless. And they may not do as well on a homestead or small-farm operation, as you may give your pigs more room to roam, and factory breeds may lack some of the more traditional pig behaviors and instincts.They will require vast amounts of feed and may not be as adaptable to eating brush and pasture as heritage breeds. Commercial pigs also tend to be leaner than their heritage breed counterparts.

Heritage Pig Breeds

It’s likely that as a small farmer, you will want to raise a heritage pig breed. Tamworth, Large Black and Berkshire are common heritage breeds used on the small farm, and all make excellent free-range pork. You may also find someone selling a cross, such as a Tamworth-Berkshire. Nothing wrong with buying a mixed-breed pig as long as you aren’t starting your own pig-breeding operation (not recommended for beginners!).

A heritage breed is a breed that was developed before commercial farming became popular. These are old-time pigs that were raised in backyards and barnyards in Europe and America, pigs that were selected for their ease of rearing, their tastes, and their hardiness. Heritage breed hogs have the ability to forage on pasture and brush easily, gaining almost all their nutrition from it.

Pigs are able to glean most nutrition from pasture, and if supplemented with dairy, and hay when fresh pasture isn’t available, you do not need to feed them commercial hog feed. Heritage breeds are more likely to do well on this regimen than a commercial pig breed.

Here are some of the more common heritage breed pigs with a short description of their personalities and other attributes. There are hundreds of breeds of pig, so this list is by no means exhaustive.

American Yorkshire Pigs

American Yorkshire pigs are originally from England, ironically, but were developed further in the United States. They are particularly good for bacon and hams, and are known for good meat and their mothering ability.

Berkshire Pigs

Berkshires are known for their very tasty, darker meat. They are a popular niche breed for small farmers. They are one of the oldest breeds known. Berkshires are hardy, active foragers, and reach around 600 pounds at maturity. Personality-wise, they are curious, friendly, and have a very good disposition.

Gloucestershire Old Spots Pigs

Gloucestershire Old Spots, also called GOS, are from England, and historically used to clean up orchards. There are very few of them in the United States and you may have to get on a wait list for them. GOS’s are lighter skinned and may require lots of shade in warmer, sunnier climates. GOS’s reach market weight in about seven months.

Hampshire Pigs

This is one of the oldest American breeds still in existence. Hampshires have a white belt around the front of their body, including their front legs. These are excellent foraging pigs, very hardy and produce excellent quality meat. Hampshires are supposed to be a good pig for beginners.

Hereford Pigs

Herefords are a lean meat hog. They’re considered “pretty,” and often used for showing at 4-H and FFA fairs. They are adaptable to raising on pasture or in semi-confined spaces. Herefords are excellent at rooting and tilling. These pigs are readily available, with a large breeding population in the United States.

Large Black Pigs

Large Blacks are hardy, thrifty, and easy to manage. They originated in England and are also known as the Cornwall, Devon, or Lop-eared Black. They have a long and deep body, as they were originally bred as a bacon-type pig. Large Blacks manage well on pasture and were originally raised in rough conditions, so they’re very adaptable. Their dark-pigmented skin means they are resistant to sunburn.

Tamworth Pigs

Tamworth pigs are originally from England, and are smaller compared to some other breeds. They’re especially good at producing lots of tasty bacon.

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Natural Horse Care and Hoof Care

Barefoot horses must be trimmed in 4-6 week intervals for optimum performance.

It's important to remember that "barefoot" doesn't simply mean "no shoes". Barefoot hooves require strict maintenance in order to be healthy. Frequent trimming simulates the natural wear a hoof would experience in the wild or natural terrain and lifestyle. Since most of our horses don't have access to thousands of rocky acres to meander on, we must simulate the wear nature would have ideally provided. By doing so we create a very strong hoof wall, strong laminea and prevent any chipping or cracks from weakening the structure.

Why must the trim be so frequent?

When we allow our horses to go too long between trims, the walls grow out too far.   This begins the process of “flares” and “mechanical separation” caused by leverage.    Since the walls are too long, every time the horse steps he is essentially pulling his hoof wall away from the inner hoof capsule, like pulling on your fingernail.   It is quite painful. The horse eventually gets a lowered coffin bone due lack of suspension and support inside the capsule. The sole then drops and becomes too low, causing the “ouchy” pain over rocks and gravel that we all know so well. Frequent trims stop this road to destruction. We must trim every 4 weeks to keep the walls in check, the heels and bars in check, and the toes rolled to allow for easier break over and to prevent and stop leverage in the toes.This allows all new hoof growth to grow straight down with good inner attachments. Once the walls grow back down straight with good lamellar attachment, the coffin bone and sole can pull back up into place.This is usually the point when horses become almost instantly sound over any and all terrain.   

My horse is going to by ouchy without shoes, how will I be able to ride?

Rubber hoof boots.

Today’s technology has provided us with many alternatives for metal shoes for horses that still need protection. I personally use Old Macs Hoof Boots, but there are many brands and styles to help you find a pair that both fit your budget and your horse. Most horses will only need one pair of boots to get them past the ouchy stage.    Boots are very tough, and most will last several hundred miles of riding. Boots have a rubber sole, which not only aids in shock absorption and traction, but also protects the still sensitive sole from stone bruises.

Why did my horse abscess right after pulling the shoes?

Most shod feet have necrotic (dead) tissue built up inside. Because of the decreased blood flow and temperature, the body is not able to remove and flush it out. That is what an abscess is: the body’s way of removing dead tissue and starting the healing process. Most abscesses will clear up within a week or two and do not require veterinary attention, but if lameness persists and the owner is concerned, a vet may be able to help dig out or apply medication to the site. The best treatment is to soak the hoof in epsom salts or diluted apple cider vinegar for 30 minutes once or twice a day to help clear out the infection.

Be warned: some veterinarians do not completely understand the barefoot movement. They may tell you what you are doing is cruel, and you need to put shoes back on. I can assure you:  You are not being cruel! Cruelty is nailing metal shoes on a horse for it’s lifetime and simply numbing it’s feet to the destruction going on inside.  It’s like putting a band aid on cancer, and saying it’s better because you can’t see it. The first month may be the hardest, but your horse will thank you in the long run and will be the happiest and most comfortable he’s ever been.

What are the benefits of a natural barefoot horse?

You’ll never have to cancel a trail ride for losing a shoe, first of all!

Barefoot horses, due to their improved blood flow, tend to live longer.There’s less strain on their heart.They have more energy and enthusiasm.Better joint movement and less strain on the joints. Many times arthritic pain and heel pain are greatly reduced. On horses started barefoot from a young age, many don’t ever develop the debilitating effects of arthritis.The benefits are endless.

Do some breeds do better barefoot than others?

A hoof is a hoof, regardless of breed or color. ANY hoof can be rehabbed barefoot, but the trim is critical. The trim is the same no matter what breed or discipline.    Whether a gaited horse or a barrel horse or a racehorse, the hoof must be individually shaped to match the inner structures to create soundness. If the proper trim is performed and maintained, any horse in the world can be rehabbed to rock crushing barefoot soundness.   

Farmer spends £2,000 converting Peugeot estate car into a SHEEPDOG

Farmer Dave Isaacs, Lad the dog and Floss the car.

After a farmer lost his beloved sheepdog, he decided to remember his loyal companion by spending £2000 on a dog makeover for the family car.

Dave Isaacs and his family, on losing Floss the sheepdog, decided to make a car-sized replica out of a Peugeot estate car.

Mr Isaacs lives on an 180 acre farm near Battle in East Sussex and spoke of this unique tribute: ‘I know it was a bit of a mad thing to do but it was a tribute to my old sheep dog Floss who passed away.

Floss the car can reach up to 40mph and has been found rather adept at herding sheep with lamplights for eyes and an exhaust for a tail.

Talking of its usage as a herder, Mr Isaacs said: ‘Sheep aren’t known for their intelligence and they didn’t seem to notice the difference so they were quite happy.’

Sadly, due to the space the car with is taking up too much barn space, the family are putting it on Ebay with a ‘heavy heart.’

‘As long as she goes to a good home I’ll be happy’ said the Sussex farmer.

Curing and Storing Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are not very sweet or moist when first dug. It takes six to eight weeks of proper curing and storage before they have the sweet, moist taste and texture desired when baked.

Although freshly harvested roots won’t directly bake into a great product, they can be candied or used in sweetened pies or casseroles.

After the roots are dug, they should be cured to heal the cuts and trigger development of the sugar-creating enzymes. Cure by storing in a warm, humid room for five to 10 days. A temperature of 80 degrees to 85 degrees and a relative humidity of 80 percent to 90 percent are ideal. These exact conditions will be hard to establish around the home, so select a room or building that comes close to these conditions.

After curing, store roots at 55 degrees to 60 degrees for six to eight weeks. This storage further develops the sugars and maltose sugar-creating enzyme. This enzyme will really kick in while baking at 350 degrees to 375 degrees to develop the sweet, syrupy sugars that Louisiana yams are famous for. 

Stored cured roots may last several months or more. The length of time sweet potatoes can be held in storage without sacrificing quality will depend on the environment they are stored in. The conditions above are “ideal,” but sweet potatoes are held under a variety of environmental conditions, and quality and longevity in storage will vary accordingly.

Exposure to low storage temperatures for several days will cause the sweet potatoes to develop a hard center and reduce their eating quality.

When the roots are stored at high temperatures for a long time, they begin to sprout, shrivel and become dry, stringy and pithy.

Sweet potato roots, held over for use as seed potatoes for the next spring, should be dusted with 2 to 4 ounces of 5 percent Imidan per bushel to help control the sweet potato weevil.

Eight Ways to Preserve Grapes in Winter

Veraison is upon us, which means the grapes are coming into season. Here's eight ways to preserve grapes, from the traditional jelly to chutney, raisins and more. 

1. Grape Jelly
The ultimate taste of childhood, grape jelly captures the essence of the fruit. Stick it to Smucker's and make your own. (While you're at it, make your own peanut butter, too.)

2.Grape Jam
Less fussy than jelly, grape jam burst with the juicy flavor of grapes, especially if you have access to wild fruit.

3.Making Raisins
Jams and jellies are not the only way to save grapes. Dry them to make your own raisins. They'll be suppler and more flavorful than store bought, guaranteed.

4.Pickled Grapes
Tangy, sweet and tongue-tingling, pickled grapes are a revelation. They're delicious in salads, or just straight out of the jar.

5.Grape Juice
Treat your tomatoes like the fruit they are. Tomato jam is sweet, savory, tangy and Grape juice is very versatile. Make a zingy shrub, ferment it into fizzy soda, sweeten it into a luscious syrup or just can it straight up!

6.How to Make Verjus
This is what you do when life gives you unripe grapes. Made with wild or domestic grapes, verjus (verjuice) is just the strained juice of unripe grapes. You use it like a mild vinegar. Best part? Verjus plays well with wine, where vinegar does not. Hank Shaw shows you how.

7.Preserved Grape Leaves
There's more to grape vines than the fruit. My Pantry Shelf shows you how to pick the right size leaves, and how to put them up so you can make dolmades for months to come. (Also, fresh grape leaves are great for keeping your fermented cukes crisp!)

8.Grape Chutney
Drizzled over roasted vegetables, used as a glaze for roast pork, spread on a grilled cheese sandwich or incorporated in your next cheese plate, this seasonal chutney is sure to impress! (No need to tell anyone just how easy it is to make...) Courtesy of Philly Herbivore.

The Mysterious Albino Deer Herd

Throughout history people have been fascinated by rare sightings of albino whitetail deer. In fact, these mystical ghosts of the woods have been the center of many ancient Native American legends and folklore. Encounters with solid white deer were even documented in journal entries by early European explorers in the big woods country of present day Wisconsin. 

The natural intrigue with white deer can probably be best explained by their unusual appearance that catches both the eye and our imagination. According to biologists, the recessive gene that causes albinism in whitetail deer is very uncommon. The chances of an albino deer being born are only 1 in 20,000. 

In addition, the solid white coats of the deer make them more susceptible to attack from predators, which dramatically decrease the overall survival rate of these special whitetails. With that being said, very few people will ever have the opportunity to catch a mere glimpse of these white ghosts. However, there is a unique place in Wisconsin called Boulder Junction that is home to an unbelievable number of wild albino deer.

Preparing Your Property for Raising Goats

Bringing home goats requires some forethought on your part so that you can keep your goats safe and healthy and protect them from predators. Here’s a glimpse of the projects you need to undertake before you get your goats:

Build housing or get current housing ready. Goats need some kind of shelter from the elements and a safe place to bunk down. In addition, you might want a dedicated area for milking or kidding, if you decide to breed your goats.

Build a fence or check your fencing for security. Goats are smart and curious, and they will head out into the neighborhood if given the chance. Furthermore, wolves, wild dogs, and other predators would love to be able to get at your goats, and so you need to do your best to keep them out.

Buy feed and feeding equipment. Goats need hay, grain, minerals, and other supplemental feed, depending on the kind of goats you get, their stage of life, and the way you intend to use them. And of course, your goats need clean, fresh water every day. At a minimum, you need

Feed storage containers

Food bowls

Hay manger

Mineral feeder

Water buckets

Put together a first aid kit. Accidents and illnesses are inevitable, and so you need to be ready for common problems you’re likely to face as you raise goats, from stopping the bleeding from a hoof-trimming injury to giving injections to combat infections or illnesses.

Goat-proof your yard or pasture. Goats are grazers, which means that they move from plant to plant and tree to tree, eating all the way. Some of the common plants that homeowners use for landscaping can poison goats, and so you need to clear them out. You may also want to protect the trees that you can’t or don’t want to remove but adding some protection to their trunks.

Tips for Bringing New Goats Home

If you purchase your goats from a breeder who lives across the country, the breeder is responsible for getting the goats to a shipper, and all you have to do is find out where to pick them up. If you bought the goats from a neighbor and they are trained to lead, just put them on leashes and lead them home. If you’re buying goats in any other situation, you need to figure out in advance how to get them home.

Some of these methods won’t work for large goats, but you can transport goats in the following ways:

Pet carriers or crates with straw or wood shavings for bedding. If you’re moving the goat in an open truck bed in cold weather, cover the crate with a rug or tarp to keep the wind down and keep the goat warmer.

The back of an SUV, van, or the back seat of a car.

Cover the seat with a tarp and towels for those “accidents” that occur during transport.

On the towel-covered lap of a passenger. Goats that are being held and aren’t standing up will not pee on you, but they will poop.

The back of a truck with a canopy. Make sure to put down plenty of straw.

A horse trailer or another trailer with fencing or cattle panels to make it high enough to prevent escape. Cover an open trailer in extreme weather conditions to protect the goats from rain and wind.

Regardless of how you transport your new goats, to make the trip as stress-free as possible, do the following:

Load the goats carefully.

Make sure they have adequate bedding or padding.

Start, stop, and take turns or curves slowly and smoothly.

If your trip will take many hours or days, provide the goats with hay during the trip and stop every 3 to 4 hours to let them eat, drink, and regain their equilibrium.

If you’re getting your first goats, you don’t have anyone to quarantine your new goats from. You just get them situated in their new digs. But if you’re adding goats to an existing herd, you need to quarantine the new goats for at least 30 days.

Breeding Goats for Meat

 Rasing your own goats for meat can give you a greener, more sustainable lifestyle. A lot of people around the world eat goat meat, which is lean and delicious. Meat goats are generally not used for milking, and some even have traits that make them undesirable to milk.

If you're interested in goats to sell in the fast-growing market, to get rid of kudzu or blackberries, or just for your own freezer, you have a growing number of breeds to choose from.

Boer: Boer goats are white and reddish-brown (although some are all red), and many are horned. Their horns are short and curve back close to the head. Bucks can weigh from 260 to 380 pounds and does from 210 to 265 pounds.

Although expensive, Boers are adaptable, hardy, affectionate, and mild-mannered. Boers do have some fairly common genetic defects you need to watch for, including extra teats and abnormal testicles.

Tennessee fainting goat: Tennessee fainting goats are also known as myotonic or stiff-legged goats because of their tendency to go rigid and fall down when they're startled. This is a genetic defect in a recessive gene that probably started in just one goat and then was continued through breeding

Kiko: Kikos are most often white with long, scimitar-like horns and medium ears that stick out sideways. They can gain substantial weight without supplemental feeding. If you have a large range for these goats, they may be more economical than Boers.

Spanish goat: Spanish goats are usually medium-sized and lanky with long horns that often twist at the end. They come in all colors and mostly have short hair but can also have long hair.

Because meat goats are growing in popularity, breeders are crossbreeding the existing breeds to develop newer, better goats. Some of the better-known breeds are

Texmaster: A moderate-sized meat goat and a trademarked cross between Boers and Tennessee Fainters developed by Onion Creek Ranch in Texas.

Moneymaker: Developed by Bob and Dusty Copeland of California by first crossbreeding Saanens and Nubians and then adding Boers into the mix.

Savanna: A heat- and drought-resistant breed with excellent mothering abilities. Savannas are muscular, with long ears, thick black skin, and a short white coat that develops a nice fluffy cashmere undercoat for additional warmth during the winter.

Sheep and Goat Production in Moldova

According to U.N. statistics, there are approximately 1.3 million sheep and goats in the Republic of Moldova. The numbers of sheep and goats, as well as other livestock, does not seem to have declined with the transition to a new economy. In fact, sheep production has increased in some areas, as there seems to be profit potential in the dairy and livestock sectors in Moldova. This differs from other former Soviet states and is probably a result of the dairy emphasis.

Milking a sheepBoth sheep and goats are milked. Goats are milked to provide milk and cheese for the family. Sheep milk is used to make cheese that is either consumed by the family or sold in the open market. The sheep and goats are of mixed genetics. The goats resemble crosses of typical European breeds: Saanan, Toggenburg, Alpine, etc. The sheep are significantly different than the breeds found in the U.S. and Canada. They have a noticeable fat tail or rump. They show indications of Karakul and other Russian breeds.

Lambing typically occurs in February. Single births are most common. Lambs stay with their dams for about three months. Peak milk production usually occurs in May. Ewes are milked twice daily. Everyone in a village combines their sheep to form a larger flock of about 75 to 100 animals. Most farmers have a few sheep, as well as a cow, some goats, pigs and poultry.

Sheep are grazed on public pasture lands. They receive no grain and do not seem to experience many health problems. There are no fences for containing livestock. Everyone shares in the cost of hiring someone to watch over the flock. A fee is paid to the government for using the land. It is assessed per head of livestock. Sheep are usually grazed separately from cows and goats.

There are also flocks of geese which graze the public pasture lands. Geese are very common in Moldova. They have paint marks on them to differentiate ownership. The sheep are brought into a fold every night for milking and overnight housing. In fact, all animals are brought home at night for supplemental feeding and housing.

 There are no restrictions on the number of animals that graze the pasture lands, no restrictions on when the land is grazed, or for how long the animals are allowed to graze. The formation of grazing associations might be a way of managing this important land resource. Otherwise, animal agriculture will be limited by the availability of productive pasture land.

5 reasons goat milk is better than cow milk

65% of the milk consumption worldwide is from goat’s milk, and this popularity hasn’t come about due to high profile marketing campaigns or big-budget advertisements.

The reasons for the worldwide popularity of goat’s milk are multifaceted. First, we need to remind ourselves that “All milk is not created equal.” The differences between cow’s milk and goat’s milk may not seem apparent upon first examination. A closer look, however, reveals several key factors that play an integral part in how milk (from either cows or goats) matches up with the human body in its various stages. All humans have been created to be sustained entirely upon mothers’ milk for at least the first six months of life. There is no other food in the world better than mothers’ milk, and it truly shows both in the laboratory and the real world. But what about after these first few months are over, and one is faced with the rest of life? Why would someone choose goat’s milk products over the far more popular and accessible cow’s milk?

Here are 5 reasons goat milk is better than cow milk.

1. Goat’s milk is less allergenic.

2. Goat’s milk is naturally homogenized.

3. Goat’s milk is easier to digest.

4. Goat’s milk rarely causes lactose intolerance.

5. Goat’s milk matches up to the human body better than cow’s milk.

A new dairy farm in Republic of Moldova

In 2010, Sjack Snepvangers and his employee Jim Boet started to develop a plan for setting up a dairy farm in Moldova. Years of preparation have finally led in 2013 to the start of a dairy farm with the purpose to have 230 cows on average at full production.

In the village Goleni (in the region of Edinet in the north of Moldova) the yard and buildings of an old state farm was purchased (12 ha), with the objective to develop a modern dairy farm. For this purpose, a totally new dairy stable has been constructed with a local construction company. This new stable is based upon dutch design, machinery and equipment. Besides the farm and constructed buildings, Millstream Moldova has 250 ha of agricultural land at its disposal for growing crops to feed the cows.

The operations at the dairy farm are in the hands of a dutch manager Jim Boet who lives at the farm. Together with the employees, the local partners and the local population, the farm will run its operations. 

Main purpose for the dairy farm is to provide high quality milk during every month of the year. This high quality milk will be collected by one of the major dairy producers in Moldova: Lapmol. Lapmol is a innovative dairy manufacturer with strong needs for high quality milk. Lapmol is convinced that with the arrival of Millstream Moldova (with its knowledge, experiance and capital), the overall dairy sector in Moldova will improve and developed to a higher level.

Pets to Bring into Moldova

There are no regulations restricting importation of #cats and #dogs. Before arrival, #pet owners should ensure that their pets are properly immunised and that they have immunisation records (primarily rabies vaccine within one year prior to arrival in Moldova) and health certificate records, certified by a public health authority in the sending country. 

The health certificate should have been issued within one week prior to the #animal’s departure (though this is not strictly enforced.) Bring or ship any special needs such as worm medicine or particular #food. Properly documented #animals are cleared quickly through customs. Be sure all pet records are completely up-to-date before arrival. Do not send the pet as unaccompanied baggage, as local airlines may refuse to accept it. There is a small fee at the airport ($2-3 per pet) for veterinary services.

Since local veterinarians do not always have vaccines, make sure your #pet has all needed shots before you come. If you anticipate a need for particular medicines, ship a supply or make arrangements with a veterinarian to send additional supplies. Many local veterinarians are generally very inexpensive and pleasant , but few speak English.