Friday, February 13, 2015

Which Type of Chicken is Best for Your Farm or Homestead ?


Once you've decided to keep chickens, you need to choose the chicken breed or breeds you are going to raise on your small farm or homestead. Chickens come in different colors, sizes, and personalities - and with over 200 breeds, it can be hard to choose! This list of the most popular breeds will help you figure out the best fit for your farm.


First, learn about the different characteristics of breeds and why you might want to choose one over the other:
Choosing Chickens
When you're ready to buy, find out where to get chicks:
Buy Baby Chicks
Keep checking back here, because I'll be adding more breeds all the time!

Ameracauna
True standard Ameracaunas are a rare breed of South American chicken that lays blue eggs. Most of what are called "Ameracaunas" or "Easter Eggers" in the United States are a mix of South American breeds. In any case, these are fun, interesting birds who are primarily good for laying eggs, not so much for meat. Their personalities can vary and their eggs, in all shades of blue, green, and even cream, are favorites among children and farmers market customers.

New Hampshire Red
New Hampshire Reds are a vigorous, early-maturing breed known for their meat more than their eggs, although they are a true dual-purpose bird, good for both meat production and egg-laying. They originally derived from Rhode Island Reds. Their personalities can vary by bird, from focused on the pecking order and a bit aggressive toward other birds, to mellow and docile.

Orpington
The most common Orpington variety is Buff. Buff Orpingtons are known for their big, fluffy-feathered bodies and gentle hearts. These are the Big Birds of the dual-purpose chicken world. Sweet, docile, and easy to confine in a fenced area, they are a favorite of families with young children. They'll tolerate a lot of picking up and handling. This means that they may also be more vulnerable to predators, though. They were originally developed for meat, but also lay eggs well, and lay right through the winter months. Great for cold climates. One of my favorite breeds overall.

Plymouth Rock
The most common Plymouth Rock variety is the Barred Rock. With their black and white stripes, Barred Rocks are a good-looking breed and stand out in the flock. Plymouth Rocks are solid, sturdy dual-purpose birds and very popular for the small farm and homestead. They were at one time the most popular breed in America.

Rhode Island Red
Rhode Island Reds are prolific egg-layers, and at one time a standard for small poultry farms. Although they're good for meat, too, they are known for their high egg production. They are active, but also calm and docile, although roosters can tend toward the aggressive side in this breed.

Sussex
An English breed, Sussex chickens were at one time the most common British table bird. Speckled Sussex is the most common variety, and they stand out from other hens with their brown plumage with white speckles. It's also good camouflage from predators. They are known for their unique, friendly, and curious personalities. Another of my favorite breeds - we have a hen named Miss Friendly who is a Speckled Sussex, and she was named because she is by far the most "pet-like" of any of our chickens.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

How to Choose Pig Breeds

So, you’ve decided that pigs are a good choice for your farm, and you want to raise them for meat. You’re wondering: what breed do I get? What breeds are even available? What are the pros and cons of different pig breeds?



“Factory” raised pigs, raised in large quantities on the mega hog house, are designed for optimal meat production, but are pretty dry, bland and tasteless. And they may not do as well on a homestead or small-farm operation, as you may give your pigs more room to roam, and factory breeds may lack some of the more traditional pig behaviors and instincts.They will require vast amounts of feed and may not be as adaptable to eating brush and pasture as heritage breeds. Commercial pigs also tend to be leaner than their heritage breed counterparts.


It’s likely that as a small farmer, you will want to raise a heritage pig breed. Tamworth, Large Black and Berkshire are common heritage breeds used on the small farm, and all make excellent free-range pork. You may also find someone selling a cross, such as a Tamworth-Berkshire. Nothing wrong with buying a mixed-breed pig as long as you aren’t starting your own pig-breeding operation (not recommended for beginners!).

A heritage breed is a breed that was developed before commercial farming became popular. These are old-time pigs that were raised in backyards and barnyards in Europe and America, pigs that were selected for their ease of rearing, their tastes, and their hardiness. Heritage breed hogs have the ability to forage on pasture and brush easily, gaining almost all their nutrition from it.

Pigs are able to glean most nutrition from pasture, and if supplemented with dairy, and hay when fresh pasture isn’t available, you do not need to feed them commercial hog feed. Heritage breeds are more likely to do well on this regimen than a commercial pig breed.

Here are some of the more common heritage breed pigs with a short description of their personalities and other attributes. There are hundreds of breeds of pig, so this list is by no means exhaustive.


American Yorkshire pigs are originally from England, ironically, but were developed further in the United States. They are particularly good for bacon and hams, and are known for good meat and their mothering ability.


Berkshires are known for their very tasty, darker meat. They are a popular niche breed for small farmers. They are one of the oldest breeds known. Berkshires are hardy, active foragers, and reach around 600 pounds at maturity. Personality-wise, they are curious, friendly, and have a very good disposition.


Gloucestershire Old Spots, also called GOS, are from England, and historically used to clean up orchards. There are very few of them in the United States and you may have to get on a wait list for them. GOS’s are lighter skinned and may require lots of shade in warmer, sunnier climates. GOS’s reach market weight in about seven months.


This is one of the oldest American breeds still in existence. Hampshires have a white belt around the front of their body, including their front legs. These are excellent foraging pigs, very hardy and produce excellent quality meat. Hampshires are supposed to be a good pig for beginners.


Herefords are a lean meat hog. They’re considered “pretty,” and often used for showing at 4-H and FFA fairs. They are adaptable to raising on pasture or in semi-confined spaces. Herefords are excellent at rooting and tilling. These pigs are readily available, with a large breeding population in the United States.


Large Blacks are hardy, thrifty, and easy to manage. They originated in England and are also known as the Cornwall, Devon, or Lop-eared Black. They have a long and deep body, as they were originally bred as a bacon-type pig. Large Blacks manage well on pasture and were originally raised in rough conditions, so they’re very adaptable. Their dark-pigmented skin means they are resistant to sunburn.


Tamworth pigs are originally from England, and are smaller compared to some other breeds. They’re especially good at producing lots of tasty bacon.

Monday, December 1, 2014

Natural Horse Care and Hoof Care

Barefoot horses must be trimmed in 4-6 week intervals for optimum performance.
It's important to remember that "barefoot" doesn't simply mean "no shoes". Barefoot hooves require strict maintenance in order to be healthy. Frequent trimming simulates the natural wear a hoof would experience in the wild or natural terrain and lifestyle. Since most of our horses don't have access to thousands of rocky acres to meander on, we must simulate the wear nature would have ideally provided. By doing so we create a very strong hoof wall, strong laminea and prevent any chipping or cracks from weakening the structure.



When we allow our horses to go too long between trims, the walls grow out too far.   This begins the process of “flares” and “mechanical separation” caused by leverage.    Since the walls are too long, every time the horse steps he is essentially pulling his hoof wall away from the inner hoof capsule, like pulling on your fingernail.   It is quite painful. The horse eventually gets a lowered coffin bone due lack of suspension and support inside the capsule. The sole then drops and becomes too low, causing the “ouchy” pain over rocks and gravel that we all know so well. Frequent trims stop this road to destruction. We must trim every 4 weeks to keep the walls in check, the heels and bars in check, and the toes rolled to allow for easier break over and to prevent and stop leverage in the toes.This allows all new hoof growth to grow straight down with good inner attachments. Once the walls grow back down straight with good lamellar attachment, the coffin bone and sole can pull back up into place.This is usually the point when horses become almost instantly sound over any and all terrain.   


Rubber hoof boots.
Today’s technology has provided us with many alternatives for metal shoes for horses that still need protection. I personally use Old Macs Hoof Boots, but there are many brands and styles to help you find a pair that both fit your budget and your horse. Most horses will only need one pair of boots to get them past the ouchy stage.    Boots are very tough, and most will last several hundred miles of riding. Boots have a rubber sole, which not only aids in shock absorption and traction, but also protects the still sensitive sole from stone bruises.


Most shod feet have necrotic (dead) tissue built up inside. Because of the decreased blood flow and temperature, the body is not able to remove and flush it out. That is what an abscess is: the body’s way of removing dead tissue and starting the healing process. Most abscesses will clear up within a week or two and do not require veterinary attention, but if lameness persists and the owner is concerned, a vet may be able to help dig out or apply medication to the site. The best treatment is to soak the hoof in epsom salts or diluted apple cider vinegar for 30 minutes once or twice a day to help clear out the infection.

Be warned: some veterinarians do not completely understand the barefoot movement. They may tell you what you are doing is cruel, and you need to put shoes back on. I can assure you:  You are not being cruel! Cruelty is nailing metal shoes on a horse for it’s lifetime and simply numbing it’s feet to the destruction going on inside.  It’s like putting a band aid on cancer, and saying it’s better because you can’t see it. The first month may be the hardest, but your horse will thank you in the long run and will be the happiest and most comfortable he’s ever been.


You’ll never have to cancel a trail ride for losing a shoe, first of all!

Barefoot horses, due to their improved blood flow, tend to live longer.There’s less strain on their heart.They have more energy and enthusiasm.Better joint movement and less strain on the joints. Many times arthritic pain and heel pain are greatly reduced. On horses started barefoot from a young age, many don’t ever develop the debilitating effects of arthritis.The benefits are endless.


A hoof is a hoof, regardless of breed or color. ANY hoof can be rehabbed barefoot, but the trim is critical. The trim is the same no matter what breed or discipline.    Whether a gaited horse or a barrel horse or a racehorse, the hoof must be individually shaped to match the inner structures to create soundness. If the proper trim is performed and maintained, any horse in the world can be rehabbed to rock crushing barefoot soundness.   

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Farmer spends £2,000 converting Peugeot estate car into a SHEEPDOG

Farmer Dave Isaacs, Lad the dog and Floss the car.
After a farmer lost his beloved sheepdog, he decided to remember his loyal companion by spending £2000 on a dog makeover for the family car.


Dave Isaacs and his family, on losing Floss the sheepdog, decided to make a car-sized replica out of a Peugeot estate car.
Mr Isaacs lives on an 180 acre farm near Battle in East Sussex and spoke of this unique tribute: ‘I know it was a bit of a mad thing to do but it was a tribute to my old sheep dog Floss who passed away.


Floss the car can reach up to 40mph and has been found rather adept at herding sheep with lamplights for eyes and an exhaust for a tail.
Talking of its usage as a herder, Mr Isaacs said: ‘Sheep aren’t known for their intelligence and they didn’t seem to notice the difference so they were quite happy.’


Sadly, due to the space the car with is taking up too much barn space, the family are putting it on Ebay with a ‘heavy heart.’
‘As long as she goes to a good home I’ll be happy’ said the Sussex farmer.

Friday, October 17, 2014

Curing and Storing Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are not very sweet or moist when first dug. It takes six to eight weeks of proper curing and storage before they have the sweet, moist taste and texture desired when baked.


Although freshly harvested roots won’t directly bake into a great product, they can be candied or used in sweetened pies or casseroles.

After the roots are dug, they should be cured to heal the cuts and trigger development of the sugar-creating enzymes. Cure by storing in a warm, humid room for five to 10 days. A temperature of 80 degrees to 85 degrees and a relative humidity of 80 percent to 90 percent are ideal. These exact conditions will be hard to establish around the home, so select a room or building that comes close to these conditions.

After curing, store roots at 55 degrees to 60 degrees for six to eight weeks. This storage further develops the sugars and maltose sugar-creating enzyme. This enzyme will really kick in while baking at 350 degrees to 375 degrees to develop the sweet, syrupy sugars that Louisiana yams are famous for. 

Stored cured roots may last several months or more. The length of time sweet potatoes can be held in storage without sacrificing quality will depend on the environment they are stored in. The conditions above are “ideal,” but sweet potatoes are held under a variety of environmental conditions, and quality and longevity in storage will vary accordingly.

Exposure to low storage temperatures for several days will cause the sweet potatoes to develop a hard center and reduce their eating quality.

When the roots are stored at high temperatures for a long time, they begin to sprout, shrivel and become dry, stringy and pithy.

Sweet potato roots, held over for use as seed potatoes for the next spring, should be dusted with 2 to 4 ounces of 5 percent Imidan per bushel to help control the sweet potato weevil.